There are few things more invigorating than a chill morning breeze, a freshly brewed cup of coffee, and the wild expanse of the Atlantic Ocean in front of you. I would be the FIRST person on the North American continent to watch the sun rise. It was 5am, cold, windy, eerily quiet, and 100% worth it. Thinking back to that moment, even 10 years later, still gives me goosebumps.
Sunrise at Cape Spear. Photo: Scott Heaney / Adobe Stock
Why I Needed to Get Away to Think
Things hadn’t been going so well, back in the ‘real world’. I had started two businesses after leaving my family business just two years prior, and I was feeling lost and overwhelmed. Where had that clarity that I’d paid so dearly for gone? Wasn’t the act of leaving the family business supposed to be the hard part? How come things weren’t working out? I needed some time & space to think, and a solo trip was a great way to get clear. Newfoundland had been on my bucket list for a while & incorporated so many of my favorite things: nature, culture, history, architecture, sustainability and, most importantly, freedom.
Why I Chose a Solo Trip to Newfoundland
My needs were simple—the purpose of this solo trip was to give me some distance from the distractions of my life & my choices so that I could find the clarity I needed to figure out what was next. What could be more different & distant than an island off of an island on the Easternmost edge of the continent? Although I’d grown up in Canada and had already visited (or even lived in) all of the Western provinces, my sole visit East had been to Montreal. The rest of Eastern Canada was unexplored. And Atlantic Canada, which consisted of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland & Labrador, felt like another world entirely. But I had had plenty of warm, down-to-Earth interactions with the people. And the seafood! Oh yes. I’d also seen pictures of remote landscapes, colorful historic houses, and the modern structures of one of my favorite architects—it all drew me in.
Initially, I was planning on a combined trip to see Nova Scotia & Newfoundland. They looked so close on the map and I was eager to experience the natural & cultural differences between the two. After realizing that the ferry crossing was anywhere from 6 to 16 hours (depending on the route) and especially rough in the fall, I quickly reconsidered. As I went deeper into trip planning, I discovered that the island of Newfoundland had more than enough to enthrall me for a week. In fact, I would only able to see & explore 1/4 of the island in the week that I had available. The natural wonder of Gros Morne National Park and the historical site of L’Anse aux Meadows, where 1000 year old remnants of a Viking encampment are the first known evidence of European presence on the continent, were out of reach and deserving of a separate trip entirely.
My First Night in St. John’s, in Someone Else’s Home
In the end, I kept it relatively simple and flew directly into the charming coastal capital of St. John’s. For fast immersion into the culture & insight into what drew others to this remote place, I stayed in a private room that I’d found on Airbnb. It was central, cozy, and hosted by an architect & entrepreneur who loved St. John’s so much that she’d moved there after graduation. Our first interaction was coffee & snacks in her living room. It felt like a visit with an old friend. We shared what was happening in our lives and she told me about her favorite restaurants, shops & hikes—the places that could pull her away from a warm fire on a cool, fall day. And cool was an understatement! The skies were deliciously dismal and there was a bite to the air that chased off the moody funk I’d been in for the last several months. Not only were my problems 4000 miles away, I had a mission. There was food to be found, shop owners to chat up, and supplies to be gathered for my upcoming adventure. Starting it all off with a place that felt like home & a guide that felt like an old friend helped me to quickly arrive and get grounded.
St. John’s, Newfoundland. Photo: EyesTravelling / Adobe Stock
Sunrise at Cape Spear: Where North America’s Day Begins
My first official plan was a sentimental & spiritual experience that ended up being one of the fondest memories of my life. It was simple. It was free. All it required was a willingness to get up early & a few supplies to make it unforgettably cozy. The sky was still dark and I stood alone on the edge of the world. It was glorious. The Cape Spear lighthouse was to my right and the entire North American continent was at my back. A fresh pot of coffee was brewing at my feet (thanks to my backpacking stove, travel French press, and the locally brewed beans I’d pick up on yesterday’s supply run). I was cold but cozy in the the fleece-lined fisherman’s jacket & waterproof shearling boots that I’d discovered during my exploration of St. Johns’ colorful terraced streets. Overkill? Absolutely not. The moment that the sun edged over the curve of Atlantic Ocean was indescribable. Peace. Presence. Awe. Certainty. Everything. Nothing. I could breathe. This was a brand new day, one that would be shared with the rest of North America in the next few minutes & hours but for now, in this moment… it was mine alone.
A series of moments after the sun rose on Cape Spear, Newfoundland
A Newfoundland Road Trip With No Plan (Except Where to Sleep)
The next two days unfolded one mile at a time. I had 400 kilometers to travel between St. John’s & the ferry in Port Albert, and two whole days to get there. So I winged it. Other than my rental car & a reservation at the Artisan Inn in Trinity, I had no plans but to wander. I drove mostly aimlessly, wiggling along the coast when there were roads, pulling over whenever I saw an interesting plant or rock formation, and exploring paths & trails that led somewhere or, even better, nowhere at all. I drove through a town called Goobies and picnicked on the cliffs in Little Heart’s Ease. Before a delicious dinner at the Twine Loft in Trinity, I built up an appetite by hiking to the hill at the edge of town to watch the sun set. A reservation for dinner & lodging was the perfect anchor for two days of anxiety-free exploration. Just that little bit of structure allowed for the freedom I’d been searching for. The next day was a maze of lakes & ponds on the way to the jewel of my trip, and a real splurge: a two-night stay at the all-inclusive & internationally-acclaimed Fogo Island Inn.
What I Found at Fogo Island Inn, Beyond the Architecture
In the years since my visit, Fogo Island Inn has earned Three Michelin keys, cementing it as one of only two properties in Canada & one of twenty in all ofNorth America (as of 2026) to have earned that distinction. The history behind the island, the Shorefast Foundation, the Inn itself, and the commitment to community integration & social entrepreneurship was my first real world example of what regenerative design & remote luxury could feel like. What surprised me most as I walked through the front doors was the absolute warmth with which I was welcomed. It probably shouldn’t have surprised me, by then. This was one of the hallmarks of my time in Newfoundland—warm greetings & the familiar feeling of returning home. The Inn’s attention to detail sealed the deal. Room keys were weighty iron shapes harkening to a time long past and unique for each room. The cozy library at the foot of the stairs was an unpretentious & stylish rendition of any local’s living room. And the furnishings! Throughout the hotel and in my room I found dozens of custom-created wallpaper designs highlighting local lore & plant life, and heirloom quilts, rugs, and furniture crafted by local hands. One of my favorite features was the wood burning fireplace in my room that kept me warm as I spent hours gazing out of a wall of windows, perched precariously on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. I could wax endless eloquent about the design, the food, the rooftop spa, the color of the lichen, and the flavors of the local herbs & herbivores but, like all the best things in life, it needs to be experienced to truly be appreciated. And if the $3k+ nightly rates (double what it was when I visited) seem entirely incomprehensible, consider that all operating surpluses flow right back into the island community via the Shorefast Foundation. This goes towards funding local business loans, cultural art projects, and environmental conservation on a tiny island community that would otherwise be faced with the commonly seen tragedy of rural decline. In just a few days, Fogo Island Inn fed my body, mind, imagination, and soul.
The Day I Followed an Iceberg Across the Island
Included with each stay at Fogo Island Inn is an orientation with a Community Host, another classic Newfoundland feature that felt warm & authentic. Although I started the day in my own car, I quickly abandoned that notion (and my car) as my host and I got to chatting about anything & everything. We discussed the unique saltbox architecture of the buildings, the fishing practices, climate, vegetation, local sentiment toward tourism, and the changes seen in recent years. She shared some of her favorite shops & lookouts, and introduced me to locals as we made our way through each of the islands’ 11 communities. But it all came to a sudden stop when I spotted something floating off of the coast. I pointed. “Is that an iceberg?!” My host smiled. “Spring and early summer is iceberg season.. it’s too late in the year for that.” She proceeded to tell me about how this area is known as iceberg alley, prime viewing location for thousands of glacial icebergs floating down the coast after breaking off from Greenland & the Arctic… but not in October. A few minutes later, I asked her to pull over. “I’m pretty sure that’s an iceberg out there.” She humored me and followed my gaze. “It IS an iceberg!” she exclaimed, moments later. We looked at each other. “Let’s follow it!” And that’s just what we did. We spent the next couple hours chasing the iceberg as it slowly floated from one end of the island to the other, sharing it with everyone we encountered. Another unexpected, unplanned moment that changed my life. It was that experience that first inspired me to become a writer.
The iceberg I followed for hours…
What a Solo Trip Gave Me That I Couldn’t Get at Home
The trip ended just a couple days later. It had been an impossibly full week that gave me memories I could return to whenever I need a little peace, inspiration, or clarity. My love for sustainability & whole-being wellness had been reignited by my journey and it sparked the beginnings of an exploration & decade-long study into communities, businesses, and design that culminated in my certification as a Regenerative Practitioner. A seed had been planted that is flowering today as I finally & confidently introduce myself as a writer. My solo trip to Newfoundland didn’t contain all of the answers, but it was an important part of the process towards cultivating the internal clarity needed to transform my life. My time there, short as it was, set me on a path of growth & adventure that I hope will someday lead me back to the place that shaped so much of who I am now.
If You’re Thinking About Going to Newfoundland
Local lore on Fogo Island claims seven distinct seasons rather than the four that most are used to. The wider island of Newfoundland officially observes the core four season (Winter, Spring, Summer & Fall) but jokingly claim two—winter and “around winter”. If you’re planning a trip to Newfoundland, choose your timing based on the activities that you most feel would feed your soul or spark your imagination… and plan for the unexpected! No matter the season, there is ALWAYS something to do or see, people to meet, places to stay, and food to eat. I have a quiet life goal to visit Newfoundland during each of Fogo Island’s seven seasons to experience the pack ice, puffins, whales, fishing, and foraging. And I haven’t forgotten the natural, historical, and geological wonders of the main island or the rest of Atlantic Canada. The possibilities are endless.
Coming Up: How to Plan a Trip That Gives You What You Need
If you’re looking for a little clarity or inspiration in your life, a solo trip can certainly be a helpful part of the process. Trips like this need a few specific things to spark the change you’re searching for. My next post will break this all down so you can see “What a Trip Built Around YOU Actually Looks Like”, and just how I’d plan a trip like this for someone else. If you’re going through something right now and need some space to think, let me know here. I’d be happy to help you plan your own solo trip.
